Stichodactyla haddoni
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Maintaining a stable and appropriate temperature is critical for the survival of aquatic life.
pH 7.8 - 8.4 potential of HydrogenMeasuring the acidity or alkalinity of water on a 0–14 scale, where 7 is neutral, 7 is alkaline.
NO3 1-20 ppm NitrateWhile less toxic than ammonia, high nitrate levels (above 40–80 ppm) are important to monitor because they can cause fish stress, stunted growth, and harmful algae blooms.
NO2 <0.0001 ppm NitriteIt is a highly toxic, intermediate compound in the nitrogen cycle produced from broken-down ammonia
PO4 0.01 - 0.1 ppm PhosphateIt is essential for plant development but must be managed, as excess levels trigger nuisance algae blooms and inhibit coral calcification.
NH3 <0.1 ppm AmmoniaIt is the primary killer of aquarium fish, causing gill damage, stress, and death
Ca 380 - 450 ppm CalciumSupporting the growth, skeletal structure, and shell formation of corals, mollusks, crustaceans, and coralline algae
KH 8 - 12 dKH AlkalinityIt acts as a shield, neutralizing acids to prevent dangerous pH "crashes" that can harm fish, corals, and plants.
Mg 1200 - 1400 ppm MagnesiumIt enables coral growth by supporting skeletal formation, assists in metabolic processes, and ensures that calcium is available for corals, clams, and coralline algae.
SG 1.023 - 1.026 SG SalinityEssential for maintaining stable, natural water parameters, proper osmoregulation, and stress-free environments for marine fish and corals
ORP 250 - 400 mV Oxidation-Reduction PotentialA higher positive mV indicates clean, oxygen-rich water with high water quality, while low readings indicate high pollution.
The Haddon's Carpet Anemone lives singly, in the shallow waters of the Indo Pacific and Red Sea. Found outside of the reef it resides in soft muddy or sandy substrate and can attain a size of up to 3 feet in diameter. Haddon's Carpet Anemone have short, blunt tentacles with a very potent sting, and can be distinguished from their close relatives Stichodactyla gigantea and Stichodactyla mertensii by the lack of any coloration, spots or markings on the underside of the anemone and down its column.
This anemone serves as a host for many types of Clownfish in the wild including: Amphiprion clarkii, A. sebae, A. akindynos, A. chrysogaster, A. chrysopterus, and A. polymnus. In the home aquarium, they can also serve as host for Amphiprion ocellaris, A. percula, and A. allardi. The Haddon's Carpet Anemone requires a tank with strong lighting and good water movement. The aquarium should have a variety of sandy and rocky locations as this animal oftentimes can move about and seek refuge in a place it prefers. This species of Haddon's Carpet Anemone prefers to bury its foot into the sandy bottom, and will oftentimes attach itself to the bottom of the aquarium glass, where its column is completely buried in the sand for protection. When first introducing this anemone into the display, it is best to try and dig out an area of the sand bed where you prefer it will reside, while decreasing the flow rate during this time so that its not blown around the display. Doing so will allow the anemone time to settle in and bury its foot completely into the sand bed. Once in place, carefully move some sandy substrate around the column and increase the flow rate back to the normal output. The Haddon's Carpet Anemone has a very potent sting and may harm corals and other anemones as it moves about the aquarium. It is not compatible with other anemones within a 12" diameter, so monitor it when it is first introduced into the tank. This species of Carpet Anemone can eat fish in the display aquarium so use caution when housing a Carpet Anemone in with fish other than clownfish. When healthy, this anemone is very sticky to the touch, and when they grasp something (or someone), it is very difficult to convince it to let go without damaging the animal. It is also one of the few anemones that can cause a severe reaction in humans, so keeping one requires care in handling. Although one of the easiest “Carpet Anemones” to care for this animal is still challenging, and is best left to the seasoned veteran aquarists.
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